03 Feb Snares Island: Tine Heke New Zealand sub-Antarctic
The Snares
Alex Burridge – December 2024
MD Antarctica Travel Centre
It’s day three of our voyage, we’ve been making our way south to a very small Island called Snares Island; named by Captain George Vancouver in 1791 as he considered them a danger to shipping.
Our first encounter was limited by a significant swell, strong winds and rain, to a ‘cruise-by’ on the ship. From a distance we saw Snares crested penguins climbing up the ‘slide’, around the ship there were literally thousands and sooty shearwaters (approx. 2 million pairs) and many Common diving petrels (one million pairs).
Salvin’s (possibly 100,000 pairs) and Buller’s (8,000 pairs) albatross breed on the Islands. We see a number of them on the water. We do a lap of the Islands hoping for a more sheltered spot and the swells are just too large for a safe zodiac excursion.
Fast-forward 10 days and we are back at the Snares, fortunately we had time, and the Island is close to our path back to Bluff. I take a walk out on deck (the best weather forecast), it’s overcast and raining. I’m thinking it’s maybe just not going to happen, or maybe wouldn’t be a very good experience.
It briefly stops raining, I decide I’d be stupid not to go….(there’s a good chance I may never be here again): I am so very happy that I made that decision.
The zodiac cruise was an adventure all of its own. We made our way to the back of the islands through some decent swell. Once we were on the sheltered side the island seemed to change – to open up – low growth forest (large tree daisy) blanketing the slopes. Small inlets with rivers running down from the Island. Snares crested penguins using the river beds to make there way to and from the island. Antarctic fur seals, Snares tomtits, fernbirds, albatross….

Sooty Shearwaters and Cape Petrels breed on The Snares

Penguin Slide – the Snares

Snares Crested Penguins graceful exit from the Southern Ocean

Snares Crested Penguin
The weather wasn’t perfect and for parts of the zodiac cruise the sun tried to come out, we cruise along the steep shoreline, through cave tunnels, and finally round a rocky outcrop to find ourselves close the ‘slide’; a large rock face, clear of vegetation, due to the thousands of Snares crested penguins that use the rock face to get to and from their nest sites on the island.
We watch as waves of penguins catch a wave and get dumped onto the rock face – it’s an amazing spectacle, one I am so very happy I did not miss.

Wave of Snares Crested Penguins

Buller’s Albatross near Penguin slide
It was a little annoying that I had forgotten my iPhone that I use for landscape shots – so I am sorry I can’t show you all the Snares has to offer.
Finally it’s time to head back to the Heritage Adventurer, we head back through the large swell and close-by we see Buller’s albatross settled on the water – for me a fantastic end to our off ship adventures.

The Snares Tomtit

Tree Daisies

A day at sea, a farewell dinner and then it’s back to Bluff.
As I started my other articles – an awesome expedition and adventure one which I highly recommend.

Courting Snares Crested Penguins

The Slide

Zodiac Cruise at the penguin slide (we don’t go in front as it blocks the penguins ‘run-up’)
I travelled on-board the Heritage Adventurer operated by New Zealand operator Heritage Expeditions. The crew were almost all Kiwis (with a couple of Aussies), their experience, knowledge and passion for their back-yard shone through. Some of the crew had been involved with eradication programmes on Campbell Island (and helped with advice for Macquarie Island’s eradication programme).
You can visit Macquarie Island and New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic Islands on several voyages.
CLICK HERE to view itineraries.

The Heritage Adventurer is a classic purpose built older expedition cruise ship. She was originally named the MS Hanseatic built in Finland and launched in 1991 and operated by Hapag-Lloyd cruises.
She’s been refurbished to a high standard and offers very comfortable accommodation; she high an ice rating of 1A – so she’s well suited to sailing in the Great Southern Ocean as far as the Ross Sea.
Each polar cruise has its own highlights and as the weather varies the schedule may change. Call 1300 784 794 or email contact@antarcticatravelcentre.com.au to talk to one of our Antarctic Experts to find the cruise that is right for you.
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