26 Jan Campbell Island New Zealand Sub-Antarctic
Campbell Island Adventure – New Zealand Sub-Antarctic

Southern Royal albatross – Campbell Island
Alex Burridge – December 26 2024
MD Antarctica Travel Centre
Today we had our pick of three activities. Option one: a zodiac cruise along the Campbell Island coast, where it is anticipated guests will see New Zealand sea lions and several species of bird (some endemic), followed by a walk up the Col Lyall boardwalk, where numerous Southern Royal Albatross nest. Option two: a hike up to Mt Honey, and option three being a 12km hike to Northwest Bay. I chose the third option.
Northwest Bay Hike – Campbell Island
The Heritage Adventurer cruised into Perseverance Harbour; a protected channel which meant disembarking into the zodiacs was easy. Low cloud hung on the scrub and tussock covered hills like a thick woollen blanket so we had to pack for all weather conditions (a decent backpack is necessary to keep extra gear as well as a packed lunch). We were soon dropped (11 of us) into shallow waters to commence our hike.
The hike involved a double crossing of a 220m high ridge to and from Northwest Bay. We climbed steadily up through low fell fields, Dracophyllum shrublands and tussock grasslands toward the ridge, still invisible in the low fog. Most of the island is covered in a boggy layer of peat so muck boots (wellingtons) are the preferred footwear option.
We passed near a colony of Antarctic Terns, and we stopped often to admire tiny ground orchids, Gentians and Black-eyed Daisies beside the spongy, sphagnum moss track. Just below the summit ridge, the megaherbs grew in profusion, made even more exotic by the beautiful white Southern Royal Albatross nesting amongst them.

Megaherbs Campbell Island

Campbell Island Daisy

Orchid Campbell Island
Once on the ridge, the mist cleared to reveal spectacular views of the Great Southern Ocean and the limestone cliffs leading down towards Northwest Bay. Our path took us along the cliff top with stunning views, and the occasional light mantled-sooty albatross, before dropping down to a boulder strewn beach via a tiny limestone cleft. We kept close together (and even then it was very easy to lose sight of the person in front you), to extend a hand where needed, as it is quite steep and slippery.
A handful of Elephant Seals lay about on the rocks, barely acknowledging our presence. However, the resident New Zealand Sea Lion ensured we knew he owned the bay. We also sighted our first Campbell Island teal and were introduced to the island’s flies – or ‘walks’ as our guide dubbed them as they have lost the ability to fly!

Brown skua on Campbell Island Coastline

Southern Royal albatross nesting Campbell Island

Dropping down to Northwest Bay
Leaving the shore we ‘disappear again’ into and through the Island’s vegetation. As we exit the dwarf forest, we encounter more Southern Royal albatross. We stop for a very welcome lunch where our guide explains a little more about the incredible work that led to eradication of goats, sheep, cattle and later rodents from Campbell Island.
We continue into the tussock-clad landscape where we find many more Southern Royal Albatross. They look so very regal and seem to glow, even in the overcast conditions.
Many of the nests were still being built; they are essentially pedestals made from a combination of grass, moss and peaty mud to keep the egg, and later the chick, up and away from the wet peat soils. We find an old nest which clearly demonstrated some of the perils these birds face at sea; a long line trace, various bottle tops and other plastic items they had ingested but managed to regurgitate.

Disappearing into the dense bush – only a beanie visible

Campbell Island snipe and pipit

Campbell Island Perseverance Harbour
Campbell Island is home to several species of endemic birds, one of them is the Campbell Island Snipe. I miss the first encounter with this beautifully camouflaged bird, their striped bodies making them almost invisible against the vegetation unless they happen to move. Fortunately, we find several more and they don’t seem to be frightened by us and stay quite close – a common trend with much of the wildlife here.
We descended a long spur, with welcome views of the Heritage Adventurer, before dropping down through Dracophyllum shrubland to Garden Cove. We had one last adventure in store for us; two New Zealand sea lions hundreds of metres from the coast sparring with one another! Once they realised we were nothing to worry about they just watched as we passed by.
Robyn, one of the many helpful expedition crew, was waiting for us to ferry us by Zodiac back to Heritage Adventurer.

New Zealand sealion
Once back on-board it’s time to complete bio-security by cleaning our boots, waterproof pants and any gear that could have picked up any seeds or dirt. Given the incredible lengths the New Zealand government to in ridding Campbell Island of introduced species it’s a very small price. READ MORE ABOUT ERADICATION PROGRAMME HERE
For me, it was another excellent day, with a challenging but really good walk, some incredible views and wildlife encounters. Dinner always seems to taste better after such a day.
The Heritage Adventurer offers a range of voyages exploring New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic Islands and Macquarie.
Please call 1300 784 794 to find the voyage that best suits your interests.

Southern Royal Albatross – Campbell Island

Megaherbs Campbell Island

View to Perseverance Harbour and Heritage Adventurer
Each polar cruise has its own highlights and as the weather varies the schedule may change. Call 1300 784 794 or email contact@antarcticatravelcentre.com.au to talk to one of our Antarctic Experts to find the cruise that is right for you.
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