Adventures in the Southern Ocean: Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia

Alex Burridge – December 2024
MD Antarctica Travel Centre

There are many reasons why you might choose a trip south to explore the sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia: incredible birdlife (several endemic species), mega-fauna, unique geology, history, elephant seals, sea lions… you get the gist…

View from Auckland Island – Galapagos of the Southern Ocean

I have just returned from the The Galapagos of the Southern Ocean voyage on-board the Heritage Adventurer.  It was a wonderful adventure and experience.  I’m going to write several articles, as writing only one summary of the voyage would be an injustice to the whole experience.

I now understand why the voyage got its name; much of the island’s wildlife is endemic and shows no fear of humans, and the island has an incredible number of bird species in particular.

As with any adventure into sub-Antarctic regions, the weather conditions play a part in what is possible. With many years of experience to draw upon, the expedition team onboard the Heritage Adventurer made the most of the conditions that we encountered. On Day 1, we found out that the planned itinerary had been re-jigged to make the most of more favourable weather conditions to visit Macquarie Island. To me, this was a sign of a company that knows the area well (i.e. what wind and sea conditions will increase our chances of ‘success’ at any given place).

Heritage Adventurer

Pile of young elephant seals on Macquarie Island

Razorback ridge, Macquarie Isthmus with research station

In this article, I am going to focus on the adventure side of the voyage; in particular, the opportunities for extended hikes (or tramping as our Kiwi neighbours would call it).

On Macquarie Island, the walks are relatively easy, some on board walks, others across the beach (on both black volcanic sand and rocks).  Auckland Island and Campbell Island also offer a number of walks, some relatively easy, again on board-walks or on relatively even ground.  Two of the walks we did were reasonably challenging, less so in duration and distance (though one was 11km), but more so in the terms of the terrain you’re hiking through. Both are beautiful hikes and absolutely worth the occasional slip and getting a little muddy for.

Sleeping elephant seal on Macquarie Island beach with King Penguins

Southern Royal Albatross near Macquarie Island

Auckland Island: White-capped albatross hike 

We zodiac to a rocky shore and, with help from the Expedition team, find our way up into the tussock grass.  The views are stunning… and sometimes you’ll be in head-high tussock grass or other native vegetation!  The first few hundred metres is quite steep and the pace is steady. We’re quite close to the coast and get a view of several white-capped albatross nesting, as well as the occasional light-mantled sooty.

After a few more slips and slides, we’re following pig tracks which makes the going a little easier and also means our muck boots come in very handy. Auckland, unlike other islands you visit, is still home to feral pigs, introduced long ago by early settlers or sealers.

Landing on Auckland Island at start of trek to white-capped albatross colony

Hiking through dense bush on Auckland Island

We soon crest a ridge and the going is easier. Shortly after, we reach our goal: wonderful views of a colony of nesting white-capped albatross. We have an hour or more to enjoy and watch these beautiful birds (binoculars very useful).  It’s quite windy so there’s plenty of activity (when calm albatross often choose not to fly as flapping requires effort and energy).

As with any walk, it’s not just about destination (white-capped albatross) but the journey…  There are many beautiful plants, the views are stunning, as well as ever changing. A small day pack is a must for additional clothing and your packed lunch and water.

White-capped albatross Auckland Island

White-capped albatross colony

Flora on Auckland Island

Stunning views as we trek back to shore

Trekking back down is a little easier

All too quickly it’s time to head back, in some ways easier as it’s mostly downhill… and sometimes, gravity takes over 😊.  The skies clear and off in the distance, we can see the Heritage Adventurer.

The wind has picked up a little (weather conditions in polar regions can change quickly) and the zodiac hugs the coast to avoid us all getting a little damp. I actually enjoy getting a little wet (maybe that’s my strange sense of humour), but it is an adventure after all! Regardless, if you have the right gear (layers) and a decent waterproof jacket and pants, you’ll keep dry.

There were maybe 20 of us that chose the hike, while other guest chose shorter walks, or to take a zodiac cruise along the shore-line.  You can choose which option best suits your interests. Back on-board, we have to clean our muck boats, jackets and waterproof pants. Biosecurity is taken very seriously as we don’t want to be moving seeds or anything else from one remote island to another.

We’re back in time for afternoon tea which, for me, tastes that much better after the wonderful adventure we’ve had.

Afternoon tea tasted that much better

Each polar cruise has its own highlights and as the weather varies the schedule may change. Call 1300 784 794 or email contact@antarcticatravelcentre.com.au to talk to one of our Antarctic Experts to find the cruise that is right for you.